Sunday, August 29, 2010

Gauteng, Kimberley August 2010

Essentially a must-do trip turned into a bit of a nightmare. Gauteng, like India, you need to be ready for and truthfully my head was still on the Zim trip that was cancelled at the last minute. Instead Pretoria, Kimberley, Potch, everything that could go wrong, did. End of winter so ugly, ugly, ugly. Hannes' much-loved Great Dane died. Ash's mum in the spare room, Nelson in Benoni teaching NIA, so a dearth of friends to mitigate the uninspiring weeks. The bottom line was that the Pretoria and Kimberley 48 Hour stories highlighted the disappointing state of tourism in both cities. Between both these cities, the state of the Gauteng/Free State roads was shocking. It's a cliche, but the Western Cape is truly streets ahead of its northern neighbours in all these areas.

Still, Birdwood Lodge in Hatfield was charming - an Arts and Crafts mansion turned into a very efficient boutique hotel (www.birdwood.co.za.) So was The Kimberley Club (www.kimberleyclub.co.za.) which manages to stay classy, relevant and animated despite being in the middle of the city centre, surrounded by a deluge of fast food outlets, bad nightclubs and dodgy Asian clothing shops.

The AA Travel Guides meeting was disappointing too -  no possibility of becoming an assessor, given the paltry fees paid.

So all told a trip best forgotten. So done.

Saturday, August 21, 2010

Kimberley 48 hours





















There's plenty here, but Kimberley's ability to draw tourists is being severely hampered by closing times - imagine the country's most historic city closing down over the weekend. It's not good enough.

Wednesday, August 4, 2010

The Bluebeard Room, Owl House, Nieu-Bethesda, August 2 2010, more pictures

The Bluebeard Room, Owl House, Nieu-Bethesda, August 2 2010











Part of the reason for the return trip to Nieu-Bethesda was to document the Owl House's Bluebeard Room, opened and cleaned - but not on show to the public. It is so named after Charles Perrault's 1697 French folktale of Bluebeard (thought to be Gilles de Rais), a nobleman who was in the habit of killing his wives and dumping their remains in a locked room. One day he leaves his chateau and gives his present wife a key to the room, saying she is not to go in. She does of course, drops the key in horror, retrieves it covered in blood and can't get it off. Bluebeard learns of her disobedience and is about to kill her when her two brothers arrive and kill the man. De Rais was an infamous serial killer of the time.

Quite who named the Owl House room, or what it was used for, no one is sure, but the story echoes sentiments voiced about Miss Helen's despotic father. His room was known as the Lion's Den, so the BR cannot have been used to 'keep him'. On the red door out to the Camel Yard (it is an outside room with an additional interior door connecting to the long Sun Room) is a frightening scrawled face in white which seems to suggest 'beware, no entry'.

Inside the small room there is much that is curious. Half the floor is designed in typical bottle mosaic - green and brown - and half is block squares of painted concrete, blood red and natural. Why this design, no one knows. It may have something to do with the small bath in the corner. If, as is likely, the room was used to strip bottles of their labels (with powerful chemicals), perhaps Martins did not want to destroy the bottle mosaic. On shelves are some of the chemicals she (and her helpers) used.

For me the significance of the room is that if, and it's a big if, she did work in here with such potions, it's far more likely they affected her sight in later years, rather than the far-fetched notion of ground glass.

On the back of the connecting door are a few very personal items, too 'valuable' to put in the house - her glasses and a duffel bag she used on her travels, marked with her name and address in what can be assumed is her handwriting (terrible).

One final observation - looking through the archive with Arno du Toit, it's clear where the inspiration for Miss Helen's fearsome warrior table (outside next to the back door), comes from. The Rubaiyat of Omar Khayyam, in the Edward Fitzgerald translation, features vivid illustrations by Robert Stewart Sherriffs. Clearly the figure in the second plate is her table prince. The symbol he is holding also features in the Camel Yard; fashioned out of tin and glass, it sits right next to the back door.

Monday, August 2, 2010

Zimbabwe, Victoria Falls, Kariba and Hwange, 31 May 2010

Nieu-Bethesda in the snow, June 17 2010







The days prior to the snowfall on the Thursday night were very sharp. Ian Alleman and I did the circumnavigation of the Compassberg the afternoon before and it was bitterly cold. On the morning of the snow - 30cm by some accounts - the townfolk filtered into the streets to see the extent of the fall. It was substantial and the town was cut off until the weekend, although no more snow fell. The Owlhouse, after a short spell open, was closed, as some of the figures were completely covered. It was feared that visitors would not see the statues and break them.

Nieu-Bethesda 31 July 2010



The return trip to Nieu-Bethesda to photograph the recently opened 'Bluebeard Room' at the Owl House, and interview Owl House Administrator Arno du Toit. Interesting paper clipping in the archive - the first interview with Miss Helen by Blignaut de Villiers on the 30 August 1970, for the Dagbreek and Landstem. In it Martins suggests that she will return to haunt the house if anything of or in it, is sold rather than given away.

Nieu-Bethesda 31 July 2010



The return trip to Nieu-Bethesda to photograph the recently opened 'Bluebeard Room at the Owl House, and